How to select a safe cosmetic

Today, cosmetics industry is one of the fastest growing industries worldwide. The demand of cosmetics is increasing with the changing lifestyle. Cosmetics manufactures, in urge to increase profits and business, are advertising on the name of various ingredients which are believed to have harmful effects on human health. In this topic, we will throw light on few ingredients commonly found in various cosmetics.It is important to note that the views presented here are based on reports by various cosmetics reviewing organizations. The usage of these ingredients is upto you that how you take these reports and bring these ingredients in use in your daily life. Cosmetics ingredients reviewing organizations like CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review), FDA (Food and Drug Administration), EEC etc have following findings on the usage of various ingredients found in commonly available cosmetics:

1. Paraben:
Parabens are commonly used as preservatives in various cosmetics. Theses are regarded as unsafe and there are various misconceptions on the toxicity of parabens. Here are reports by CIR on two commonly found parabens, viz propyl paraben and Methyl paraben. We are quoting some lines from the CIR reports for readers here:

"The Parabens are esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA) and are the most commonly used as preservatives in cosmetic formulations. Data obtained fromchronic administration studies indicate that Parabens are rapidly absorbed, metabolized, and excreted. Acute chronic and subchronic toxicity studies in animals indicate that Parabens are practically nontoxic by various routes of administration. Methylparaben and Ethylparaben at 100 percent concentration were slightly irritating when instilled into the eyes of rabbits. Numerous in vitro mutagenicity studies indicate that the Parabens are nonmutagenic. Methylparaben was noncarcinogenic when injected in rodents or when administered intravaginally in rats. Cocarcinogenesis studies on Propyl and Methylparaben were negative. Teratogenic studies on Methyl- and Ethylparaben were also negative. Parabens are practically nonirritating and nonsensitizing in the human population with normal skin. Paraben sensitization has been reported when Paraben-containing medicaments have been applied to damaged or broken skin. Photo-contact sensitization and phototoxicity tests on product formations of Methyl-, Propyl-, and/or Butylparaben gave no evidence of significant photoreactivity. It is concluded that Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, and Butylparaben are safe as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of use."

2. Siloxanes:

Siloxanes are other suspect ingredients which are believed to have harmful effects on health and skin.

Here are some findings from a report by CIR on siloxanes (Cyclomethicone):

"These ingredients have skin/hair conditioning agent function in common. Mineral percutaneous absorpyion was associated with these ingredients and the available data do not suggest skin irritation or sensitization poential. Also, it is not likely that dermal exposure to these ingredients from cosmetics would cause significant systemic exposure. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration."

Click here to read the detailed report on Cyclomethicone

3. Sulphates (or sulfates):

Sulfates are commonly used as foaming and cleansing agent in various shampoos, soaps and conditioners. Some commonly found sulphate ingredients are Sodium laureth sulfate, Sodium lauryl sulfate,  Ammonium laureth sulfate, Magnesium laureth sulfate,  Magnesium myreth sulfate, Sodium myreth sulfate, Arnmonium laureth sulfate etc. Here's a CIR report  on some sulphates:

"Sodium laureth sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate are used in cosmetic products as cleansing agents, emulsifiers, stabilizers, and solubilizers. The ingredients have been shown to produce eye andlor skin irritation in experimental animals and in some human test subjects; irritation may occur in some users of cosmetic formulations containing the ingredients under consideration. The irritant effects are similar to those produced by other detergents, and the severity of the irritation appears to

increase directly with concentration. However, sodium and ammonium laureth sulfate have not evoked adverse responses in any other toxicological testing. On the basis of available information, the panel concludes that sodium laureth sulfate and ammonium laureth sulfate are safe as presently used in cosmetic products."

The detailed report on Sodium laureth sulfate can be found by clicking here 

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4. PEG Compounds: 
Below is an abstract from a report on PEG-33 by CIR that shows safe levels of PEGs that can be use inside cosmetics:

"In general, PEGs are not oral toxicants, exhibit little ocular irritation, and have minimal dermal irritation and sensitization. PEGs are not genotoxic or carcinogenic. PEGs are not reproductive or developmental toxicants.Use of antimicrobial creams with a PEG vehicle was associated with renal toxicity when applied to burned skin, but studies of extensively tape stripped skin demonstrated that the levels of PEGs that could penetrate in a worst case analysis are >100 times less than the renal toxicity no observable effect level, providing a margin of safety. Triethylene Glycol and PEGs = 4 are considered safe for use in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration."

All the detailed information about different PEG compounds can be found on websites by CIR and other cosmetic organizations. The links to these organizations are given at the end of this page.

5. Acids:

Well I am not going to right much on acids because there are number of acids that are used inside cosmetics but too acids which can common in use are: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Lauric acid.

Here what FDA is saying on Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs):

"Products containing AHAs are marketed for a variety of purposes, such as smoothing fine lines and surface wrinkles, improving skin texture and tone, unblocking and cleansing pores, and improving skin condition in general. Sometimes AHAs are used in cosmetics for other purposes, such as to adjust the pH (the degree of acidity or alkalinity).

Has FDA received reports of adverse events related to AHAs?

FDA received a total of 114 adverse dermatologic experience reports for AHA-containing skin care products between 1992 and February 2004, with the maximum number in 1994. The reported adverse experiences included burning (45), dermatitis or rash (35), swelling (29), pigmentary changes (15), blisters or welts (14), skin peeling (13), itching (12), irritation or tenderness (8), chemical burns (6), and increased sunburn (3). The frequency of such reports for skin exfoliating products that contain AHAs has been considerably lower in subsequent years. The more serious adverse reactions appear to occur most often with products that cause the greatest degree of exfoliation, such as "skin peelers."

The detailed information can be found here

We will also like to highlight here that working of AHAs are very much dependent on the pH levels. Unsafe pH levels can result in skin problems like the ones mentioned in report by FDA.

Lauric acid: Few lines from a report on Lauric acid by CIR :

"Oleic, Laurie, Palmitic, Myristic, and Stearic Acids are fatty acids with hydrocarbon chains ranging in length from 12 to 18 carbons with a terminal carboxyl group. These fatty acids are absorbed, digested, and transported in animals and humans. Little acute toxicity was observed when Oleic, Laurie, Palmitic, Myristic, or Stearic Acid or cosmetic formulations containing these fatty acids were given to rats orally at doses of 15-19 g/kg body weight. Feeding of 15% dietary Oleic Acid to rats in a chronic study resulted in normal growth and health, but reproductive capacity of female rats was impaired. Results from topical application of Oleic, Palmitic, and Stearic Acid to the skin of mice, rabbits, and guinea pigs produced little or no apparent toxicity. Studies using product formulations containing Oleic and Stearic acids indicate that neither is a sensitizer or photosensitizing agent. Animal studies also indicate that these fatty acids are not eye irritants. Laurie, Stearic, and Oleic Acids were noncarcinogenic in separate animal tests. In primary and cumulative irritation clinical studies, Oleic, Myristic, and Stearic Acids at high concentrations were nonirritating. Cosmetic product formulations containing Oleic, Laurie, Palmitic, and Stearic Acids at concentrations ranging up to 13% were not primary or cumulative irritants, non sensitizers. On the basis of available data from studies using animals and humans, it is concluded that Oleic, Laurie, Palmitic, Myristic, and Stearic Acids are safe in present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics."

The detailed report on lauric acid can be found here

It is quite clear from above reports that these compounds are safe below particular limits. The ingredients which are prohibited for use by FDA are:

Bithionol, Chlorofluorocarbon propellants, Chloroform, Halogenated, salicylanilides(di-, tri-, metabromsalan and tetrachlorosalicylanilide), Methylene chloride, Vinyl chloride, Zirconium-containing complexes, Prohibited cattle materials.

Ingredients which are restricted for use in cosmetics are:

Hexachlorophene, Mercury compounds, Sunscreens in cosmetics.

Compounds which have recommended for limited use in cosmetics include:

Chloroacetamide (preservative), ethoxyethanol and ethoxyethanol acetate (solvent), HC Blue No. 1 (hair coloring ingredient), p-hydroxy-anisole (antioxidant), 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine, 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine HCl, and 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine sulfate (hair dye ingredients), pyrocatechol (used in hair dyes and skin care preparations), acetylethyl-tetramethyl-tetralin (AETT), musk ambrette, 6-Methylcoumarin (6-MC).

 

The information on restricted and prohibited ingredients can be found here

Here are links to sources by various cosmetics reviewing organizations that provide reports on safety of cosmetics ingredients:

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR):

U.S.A. based organization that provide reports on toxicity, safety and the reaction of various ingredients on human skin. Click here to find sources from CIR.

EEC Cosmetic Directives: 

EEC is European organization that provides principles, rules and safety information on various cosmetics ingredients. Click here to view sources from EEC.

Food and Drug Administration (FDA):

FDA is a U.S based organization that provides information on safety of products added to the cosmetics,like cosmetics sunscreens  and antiperspirants.Click here to visit FDA website. Click here to read on few common ingredients found in various cosmetics of daily use.

IFRA (International Fragrance Association):
IFRA issues reports on safety of fragrances. Here's a link to IFRA home page.

Journal of the American College of Toxicology:

It publishes reports on studies conducted on various cosmetics. Here's a link to Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 

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